Fashion's default speed is fast-forward, so it's no surprise when time flies. But it was news to some that this year marks Tsumori Chisato's 20th anniversary. To celebrate, the Japanese designer explained backstage, she made this collection a sort of repository of her favorite things. There were no raindrops on roses here, but there were whiskers on kittens—if you count the leopard motif on the fabulous cat-face sunglasses or a cartoony print of the big cats lounging around with black clouds.
What else goes on that list? "A colorful pop feeling," the designer said through a translator. That was present in spades, but in some ways this collection seemed to be an homage to the city where Chisato has shown for the past seven years, a location that has helped to expand her reach beyond Japan. The look was a sort of mixed-up, manga version of the Parisian gamine/sophisticate, with smartly girlish dresses in bold childlike prints, finished with proper little hats and fab spectator oxford wedge booties. And the preponderance of sailor stripes, rendered in multiple quirky knit forms, seemed a nod to quintessential hometown girl Sonia Rykiel.
Chisato said she fell in love with the midi hem after seeing the Met's American Woman exhibition earlier this year. The longer length worked to cut the cutesiness factor that can sometimes send things overboard at her label. Maybe she'll make the midi another favorite thing to add into the mix for the next 20.