Bouchra Jarrar is a big talent who prefers the small gesture. The
ready-to-wear collection she showed at the Musée Bourdelle put in sharp
relief the frivolousness of some of the haute couture paraded elsewhere
today. Sounding a lot like Phoebe Philo, another smart woman designer who's
made sharp tailoring the defining aspect of her work, Jarrar called her new
offering a "continuation of the wardrobe, of the story I've been telling
since the beginning."
The designer's focus, as always, was on cut. Trousers were at once stricter
through the hips and fuller through the legs than they were last season, and
jackets had a more masculine swagger, thanks to double-breasted silhouettes,
bolder shoulders, and brass military buttons. On the other hand, a pair of
backless gilets—one in fox and the other in black-tipped white feathers—were all femme. Jarrar latched on to snoods; in fur and stripe knits, the circular scarves accessorized sleeveless coat-dresses, as well as simple coats.
But the real news for this label was prints—a contemporary woman's wardrobe
isn't complete without them, after all. Jarrar has never used them on the
runway before, so she started off subtle, draping a silk floral wallpaper
motif into a soft shirtdress and a wrap gown. We can already picture the
bow-front blouse in the deep-forest-green print taking root in the front
rows next season.