The siren song of the sea called to Diesel Black Gold this season. Its designers spoke of the modern nomad, who apparently won't confine his travels to mere dry land. A palette of washed-out slate grays and ocean blues dominated, and the official word was that the navy was the inspiration point. Diesel's roués aren't necessarily of the serviceman stripe, but you could see the influence in the profusion of nylon tech jackets and outerwear, the kind of thing you'd imagine would be light enough and resilient enough to be a boon on board. Pants came lower and looser than in seasons past, and the overall impression of the collection was a shruggy slouch. It might have been interesting to see the designers truly plumb the military world and borrow some of the rigidity and formality of uniform, but no shame in going with what works. For Diesel, that's casual, and there are plenty who like it that way. They'll have much to look forward to when the label opens a standalone Black Gold shop in New York this fall.