The theme of the new Emporio Armani collection was "Lightness," but it was a gray light the show cast, a neutral urban haze that matched the low-key nature of the clothes. This wasn't one of those Emporio collections where Armani indulged himself in playful oddity. His focus remained squarely on lightening his signature jacket, deconstructing it till, at some points, it was almost as easy as a pajama or kimono, with fabrics that were appropriately silky or even translucent, in keeping with the light theme. The trouser shape Armani preferred had stitched multi-pleats, hung low on the waist, and ended just above the ankle at a desert boot. Shirts had narrow collars or none at all. Both types were buttoned to the throat. The overall impression was sober, unassuming, and a little crumpled. (There was even a print that duplicated creases.) It was almost as though Armani were taking a breather from the furious pace the expansion in all directions of his business has demanded of him. He deserves it.