Before his Spring menswear show, Yigal Azrouël spoke of the "uniform feeling" of the collection this season. He didn't mean it in the sense of sameness or similarity, though the silhouette shapes were mostly related, and the color palette held back. A look of utility is what he imagined, and he drove home the point with a repeated styling piece: a utility belt bearing a large pocket that dangled under jackets and coats.
The Yigal uniform is a little bit sporty, a little bit dressy, and a little
bit leather—all at once. And that, in a nutshell, is what he showed. Looks that were skewing formal with a tuxedo jacket on top were pulled to the street with slubby sweat shorts. The drawstring track pant was elevated into what you could call a waist-tied tuxedo trouser; it came with a shirt half tucked in, the stiffness bent by the slouch.
One could argue that there are more realistic things to be seen on catwalks than sweat-suit gala garb and the like. It is very styled. But the message is only a message, though it's a good one: A uniform doesn't have to be a by-the-rule-book drag. Many of the looks Azrouël showed today weren't real-world ready. But the individual pieces had his usual streetwise charm—the kind that keeps them selling on the floor.