Milly's Spring collection was a lesson in geometry. Designer Michelle Smith recently saw an exhibit of artist Sonia Delaunay's bold textile work at the Cooper-Hewitt museum and used it as a jumping-off point for the Tetris-like patterns and color palette (cobalt, tan, white, red, and palm green) here. This collection was "more linear and modern than it's been, with an emphasis on clean shapes," according to the designer. The boxy tangerine dress with a scattering of hand-embroidered gold sequins had an artisanal feel. And a favorite look of Smith's, a simple royal blue sheath dress with a high neckline, cut from a tropical wool, came styled with a resin turtle brooch and neck scarf tied à la Christina Ricci in the new Pan Am series.
Speaking of, Milly's accessories have been steadily improving each season, and Smith's new capsule collection with Sperry Top-Sider ("I've been wearing
Sperrys since I was a kid," she said), which featured cute espadrille platforms, was a high point here. As were the new handbag designs: slim rectangular clutches and satchels in bright citron, pink, and aqua. Referencing the ongoing neon fad, Smith said, "They [neons] are easy to wear as finishing-touch pieces. But I have a feeling we'll be seeing a lot of palette-cleansing grays and blacks next season."