For her Spring collection, Rachel Roy looked to colonial Vietnam in the twenties and thirties. "It was an era when women explored and broke with tradition," Roy said after her presentation today. "I was interested to see what a woman [in that era] might wear from a gentleman's wardrobe in a modern, 2012 way." There was quite a bit of borrowing from the boys here, with slouchy suiting separates like a draped jacket and relaxed, cuffed trousers, which paired with an on-trend washed-silk pajama shirt.
Black and white looks, which made up most of the collection, were a nice counterpoint to all the neons and saturated brights we've been seeing this week (and the past few seasons, for that matter). A pair of perforated white leather shorts with snakeskin trim nodded at this season's ruling sporty trend. And bold jacquard knit pieces featured a black and white print that Roy found on Vietnamese tile work. The Asian influence also came into play with subtle mandarin collars and kimono wrap dresses that were pretty, modern, and wearable. Things lagged a little in the eveningwear department, but that could be because Roy herself has been taking a different, gown-free approach to red-carpet dressing recently. Last month, the designer got quite a few mixed reviews after showing up at a film premiere in pinstriped men's pajamas and heels.