By the chorus of "fabulous"-es backstage, you knew that David Neville and Marcus Wainwright had struck a chord. And it wasn't just the music Thom Yorke recorded specifically for the occasion. For the fourth season now, the designers played with a piled-on look, and with references that included seventies surfers, the Glastonbury music festival, and nineties raves, they got the mix mostly right. "Editorial," but also street.
Take Fei Fei Sun's opening look. The boxy pantsuit played to Neville and Wainwright's strengths in tailoring. The electric turquoise hooded poncho that she wore under the jacket put them at the forefront of this week's burgeoning sport trend. A sleeveless, white, diagonal-hemmed tunic worn with navy and orange tuxedo track pants was another cool outfit. Bold color, the designers have learned from their denim collection, is a big sell these days, and they're sticking with it.
Some of the more densely layered looks—tweedy blazer over long cardigan over parachute skirt, all topping a crochet bra—were too tricky. No one wants to work that hard to get dressed in the morning, do they? And the plastic fabric of a pencil skirt seemed unlikely to lure many customers. But the opposite was true of much of the rest. The patchwork blazers, the space-dyed crochet sweater, a white leather mesh tee and Perfecto jacket—you could picture these flying off the shelves in Rag & Bone's newly expanded location on East Houston Street.