Olivier Theyskens has lived in New York for the better part of a year now. He's fully osmosed how cool downtown girls dress here, and, in a preview of his Theyskens' Theory collection, he said it was his intention to re-create that on the runway. That's about as unpretentious as backstories get, and the clothes—jackets and denim, mostly, along with a couple of jumpsuits and a handful of drop-waist dresses, all in shades of white, black, gray, and blue—followed suit.
That's not to say he didn't innovate. Just when you thought there were no new jeans styles left to invent, Theyskens' big idea was a pair that's high-waisted and slouches off the hips at the same time, thanks to a double waistband. Another fun notion: a tweed jacket with its breast pockets shifted below the armholes. The designer calls them "clutch pockets," because it looks like the wearer is clasping her pocketbook there.
It's the relative ease of this label on the pocketbook that has helped make it a constant sight in the front rows this week. We're sure there are editors out there already planning to place a personal order for Spring's little black jacket with iridescent crystal embroidery. It's straight-up street-style bait. Ditto the cropped leather pants treated with a holographic film. The only bit Theyskens didn't get quite right: the impossibly high patent platform pumps. The combat boots were much truer to real New York life.