There's rarely much news at a Todd Lynn show. Today's outing was no exception, but the collection he presented was well executed and concise. This season, he continued to soften the look of his urban warrior clothes for men and women, in particular by integrating yards of draped and trailing fabrics into his looks and by turning out his clothes in weather-beaten stretch linen and silk. Lynn has also squared off the daggered shapes of his tailoring, which has helped to freshen up his silhouettes.
In addition to the flowing fabrics, Lynn's key ideas this time around were to slice open his jackets and trousers at the hip, revealing layered materials or skin, and to punctuate looks with punkish rows of pins. (The pin jewelry was made in collaboration with Shaun Leane.) A top made almost entirely of pins is going to get a lot of action in fashion editorials; a cropped jacket in black, with pins latticed along the collarbone, will be catnip for the woman who's looking for a tasteful, even grown-up way to let her inner rock star shine. Ditto the pinned blazer for men in Lynn's washed blue linen.
Those rainy blue silks and linens were the only hit of color at this show, which makes Lynn's collection an outlier in a season where bold palette is the big story. That said, he did engage with one of the other emerging Spring '12 themes, which is shine: Some of his strongest looks were sharply cut cotton bouclé pieces in silver. The short, knife-pleated silver skirt and hip-sliced, high-collared vest looked particularly good.