What if Ferragamo threw a party and not a single dress shoe came? Thus
the Spring predicament. The house that footwear built was represented by
running shoes, stem to stern. The inspiration, according to creative
director Massimiliano Giornetti, was Los Angeles and its frenetic
energy. "The culture of sport from one side, pop from the other," he
said. It seemed calibrated to make you (or your heart) race: Every color
was blasted to ten. Giornetti called them "vitamins." The opening salvo
was a heady dose of them: a long, light coat in Curaçao blue, an
orange tee, lemon yellow belt. From there, the color kept coming. The
show went practically sour with vitamin C.
The designer is one of many to take sport themes as a central
preoccupation this season. They gave an appealing lightness to the tailoring in fine poplin and bonded cotton. And L.A. is a
city of tie-less informality, one of the global homes of sneaker casual.
It's also the town where Salvatore Ferragamo himself first set up shop
to ply his trade. Even so, this felt like a departure. Giornetti was
quick to explain that the show was for show. "I was thinking of it like
a short movie," he said. That, too, is very L.A. More Milan was a group
of jackets at the end, hand-painted around the hems, lapels, and pockets
with splotches of bleeding color.