Herewith, some facts that will make you feel old. OK Computer came out 15 years ago. The very first Harry Potter book was published in June of 1997—also 15 years ago. And it was 15 years ago that Matthew Williamson launched his brand, sending his infamous, influential, pop-colored, and bias-cut collection Electric Angels down the runway. Wondering where the time went? Panicking about whether you've made productive use of it? Well, ha! Or, you know, sorry.
For the record, Williamson has spent the past 15 years getting to know his customer. Whatever youthful interest he may have had in pleasing gimlet-eyed, Comme-des-wearing fashion editors, he has forsworn. The abbreviated, embellished, hyper-colored looks on his runway today were not for them; they were for the committed Williamsonistas who look to him for a punchy palette and pretty, attention-grabbing party clothes. Those trademarks were established in that very first Electric Angels collection, which the designer acknowledged referencing here. He did so through the prism of India, a formative place for him, and a nation that shares his devotion to saturated color and graphic embellishment. Hence, prints that conjured the pigment-tossing Holi festival that welcomes spring, and adapted Nehru jackets in bright, tweedy weaves, and plenty of traditional Indian tapestry embroidery.
Meanwhile, the shoes were the news on the runway today. Williamson is launching his own line of shoes for Spring, and he showed off a few spindly platform styles that did not look comfortable. That said, there will be flat and mid-heel styles in the full collection.