In response to her clients' requests, Rachel Comey focused on occasion
dressing for Spring, an area the work-and-weekend-wear designer had
previously left unexplored. "I'm used to thinking about dresses that
work for night, but for like a Tuesday night," the designer said before
her show. Saturday night dresses meant a few firsts, from ruffles to
beading, and a return to last season's high-end fabrics, such as a
hand-cut fille-coupe from Italy. Admittedly, the sight of a pink
strapless minidress blooming with an outsize ruffle on the bodice was a
bit jarring at first. But that's the sort of jolt that's bound to happen
when you're changing gears.
Overall Comey carried off the new embellishments with her signature
subtlety and easy femininity. A navy shift with a sheer back had tiny,
brightly beaded lines where the tops of pockets on a dress shirt would
be. It provided a touch of evening-appropriate sparkle while also giving
a nod to the menswear that Comey so often turns to for inspiration. In
an attempt to temper all the fancy stuff, she showed sleek one-piece
bathing suits, some printed winningly with designs from men's neckties.
For a day not at the beach, there was an easygoing pale-pink blazer with
snap-button closures and a pair of perfectly slouchy camouflage pants.
Accessories are a big part of this designer's business—a sunglass
collaboration with Prism this season added eyewear to her
offerings—and as the brand continues to evolve, it's nice to see Comey meet its clients' needs on all fronts. Comey fans with somewhere
special to go will now have plenty of playfully elegant options.