Was a time when KTZ's Marjan Pejoski was a member of the Worshipful Tribe of Westwood, one of the acolytes who turned Dame Viv's presentations into the closest things to revival meetings that fashion will ever see. How must he feel when he gazes out over the crowd at the KTZ shows during London fashion week and sees the phenomenon being duplicated? Pejoski and co-designer Koji Maruyama have galvanized their own global tribe. They have a huge club following (A-Trak contributed a special mix to today's soundtrack), and today club kids came from all over. Kanye was expected, too. He's a big fan. Too bad he was a no-show.
Globalism is a given for KTZ. Just like Pejoski said after the men's show back in June: "We're children of National Geographic." This collection picked up where that one left off, with the lingering inspiration of the designers' trip to North Africa. "We wanted to extend that excitement into our womenswear, work with it a little bit more," said Pejoski. "Berber women are even stronger than the men in their look and their accessories." The flowing volume of nomadic dress was translated into florals, pinstripes, and georgettes, but there was also something of Westwood's Seditionaries in the new tribal layering. That synthesis of ancient and anarchic defines KTZ. Islamic mosaics were the basis for the collection's geometric patterns, but they were offered in futuristic synthetics. And traditional silver Berber jewelry—"It's the way they communicate their wealth," Pejoski explained, "like wearing your bank account on your chest"—added a top-to-toe lethal edge that was purest Road Warrior.