After the buzz surrounding last season's Galliano interlude—did he have a hand in the collection, or did he not?—the atmosphere chez Oscar de la Renta this evening was comparatively subdued. But cue a George Harrison medley on the sound system and Karlie Kloss gliding onto the runway in a double-face gilet, cardigan, and pencil skirt, and the crowd perked right up.
To start, there were classic day clothes in navy and white, with little adjustments here and there to bring proportions up-to-date. All looked well judged, though the chicest of the bunch was a gathered lapel jacket and matching pencil skirt in oversize houndstooth. From there, paths diverged. On the one hand, de la Renta showed a white cotton leaf dress with crochet knit trim, the picture of innocence. And on the other, he whipped up a blouse in black guipure lace with dramatic puffed sleeves out of a period drama. It takes all kinds, de la Renta knows, and he had a little something for all his ladies tonight: a graphic black and white interlude, vivid silk faille party dresses, stretch viscose separates embroidered with crystals, and a multicolor botanical printed on top of a polka dot, as cheery as can be.
The variety continued into evening, which ranged from a narrow column dress in tiers of aqua georgette trimmed in tiny pearls to a frothy confection in citrine silk faille and tulle with black filigree embroidery. Just lovely, all around.