If you didn't know what Neo-Concretism is, Roksanda Ilincic gave you a tutorial in her show today. The key themes of the midcentury Brazilian art movement, as demonstrated by the paintings of Hélio Oiticica, are things the designer loves: structures and planes, geometric patterns, how to use bold colors, but minimally.
Ilincic's mastery of the subject was perfectly demonstrated in a fluid skirt in a geometric glass shard print shown with a canary yellow structured jacket in bonded neoprene. A thinner bonded neoprene appeared on a yellow blouse paired with a stiff knife-pleated gray skirt in silk gazar. That look intrigued—how did she get something so stiff to flow so nicely? The black and white monochrome looks—including a "lace" skirt that looked like a cage—were, again, not silk but thin versions of laser-cut bonded neoprene.
Buyers starting scribbling furiously at the sight of a showpiece jacket with petals laid down geometrically, and rightly so: It was a knockout. Then it was the stylists' turn to start taking notes when out came a red-carpet number with all the Ilincic hallmarks: draping, sharp waist, splashes of color, and the use of different silks to create a bas-relief effect. It all but screamed out for a Cate Blanchett or Keira Knightley.
If she stumbled, it was with a jarring stripy silk dress that lacked the rigor of the rest of the collection, but that is really just nitpicking. Ilincic hardly missed a step.