"Thinking smaller, boiling things down." Those were Thakoon Panichgul's talking points before his show today. What his Spring collection lacked in a cohesive overall message, it made up for in thoughtful touches. The best of the lot has got to be the long pearl chains on his cross-body bags, made in collaboration with the Japanese jewelry company Tasaki, with whom Panichgul has a long-running partnership. As they say, these weren't your grandmother's pearls.
Jewels were a recurring motif—connecting the front and back panels of a satin top, decorating the shoulder hole of a sleeveless coat, lining the split seam of a cotton poplin blouse. Some of the ideas worked better than others, and it was easiest to imagine a black satin cocktail dress, with crystal chain embroidery that extended into a necklace, landing in stores. Panichgul has made special little dresses his signature over the years, but this season it was his pants, slouchy at the hips and full through the legs, that stood out. Trousers for evening aren't a new concept, but they looked great here in navy paired with a lacy black cami and in platinum teamed up with a sleeveless ivory shell. Overall, there were no needle-moving ideas here, but piece by piece, there were plenty of charming details.