It's hard to go wrong with a rock-chick theme; black leather Perfecto jackets, clingy dresses, and motorcycle boots are entrenched in our perception of cool. But it's harder still to go right—and Cecilia Bönström did get it pretty much right with the Spring collection she showed for Zadig & Voltaire today. There was a good balance of strong and soft: All those leather-fringed pieces were offset by scalloped-edged lace shrugs and camisoles meant to be worn outside the bedroom. Python jacquard leggings and knits that behaved like mesh went beyond mere basics. Jackets in woven rabbit fur represented a one-two punch of smart positioning: first, as transition pieces to bridge winter and spring, and, more symbolically, as a sign that the brand is considering an elevated product offering (and price point). Meanwhile, Bönström played around with heavy metal in the form of shiny silver boots and a gold sequined jacket designed to look distressed with intermittent black sequin patches. And, for the first time, she introduced a jewelry range featuring cross-shaped open cuff bangles that were more graphic than goth.
Among the hits, a few misses stood out. A white pantsuit trimmed with yellow tuxedo stripes did not belong here, nor did the polished knee-length shorts—especially as styled with a black fedora and mini-bow-tie choker. Backstage, Bönström was sporting the same T-shirt that was gifted to guests. In sparkly gold lettering, it read, "I should have been a cowboy." Judging by today's generally successful outing, the Zadig & Voltaire gal wears this persona just fine.