Alexander the Great was born in Macedonia. That fact weighed heavy on Marjan Pejoski's latest collection for KTZ. He's Macedonian, too. The song that played out the finale of his men's show was the Tears for Fears hit "Everybody Wants to Rule the World." Alexander attempted world domination through the traditional route, with an army. Pejoski's dreams of an empire are founded on extreme sportswear. More powerful, because KTZ speaks to all sorts, from the fashion kids on the streets of Tokyo to pop Olympians like Rihanna and Kanye. And the enduring strangeness of this tale is that Pejoski's work now is just as peculiar as it was when he was sculpting a swan dress for Björk to wear to the Oscars. Hence a studly gladiatorial breastplate anchoring a floaty nylon coat and a warrior's tunic glittering with paillettes.
Such outfits suggested a will to subvert male verity, but Pejoski insisted he was drawn to Ancient Greece because of its "appreciation of masculinity." Besides, as he has often said, "If you don't know the past, you can't get to the future." Plus, he specializes in exaggeration and there was plenty of that here in the sportswear-on-steroids proportions. The colors of the collection were black, white, and terra cotta, like those on a Greek vase. The details were ingenious reinterpretations of classical emblems, like the baseball cap-cum-warrior's helmet, the visor decked with the wings of Hermes, and the platform Greek sandal. Picture a bike courier in ancient Athens and you're close to the look.
KTZ is a world unto itself, with an audience of acolytes who absorb Pejoski's clothes into their own self-creation. Pejoski was ahead of the curve on this one. The likes of Hood by Air are his children.