There was no surprise regarding what the theme of Spring's matchup between Thom Browne and Moncler would be. Upon entering the coliseum-like venue, spectators were confronted by a boxing ring wrapped in Browne's signature tricolored stripe and surrounded by bleachers.
How did Browne arrive at boxing for this season, one might ask? He just picked it, he said backstage. For no other reason than it's a sport, and that's what his Moncler Gamme Bleu collection was all about. From there, the designer took inspiration from fighters' flowing, decorated robes, high-waisted trunks, and lace-up boots to create one of his most fun, imaginative, and comfortable-looking Gamme Bleu outings yet. It was an exercise in meticulous maximalism. Lacing borrowed from the closures on boxing gloves held together shirts and trousers. The thick bands of stitching from the waist of boxing shorts became a detail used to nip in outerwear to give some shape. Shorts were cut longer and looser than usual and layered over trousers. There were plenty of Browne-ian touches, too—layers of glen plaid, tartan, seersucker, and slubby summer tweeds; button-collar oxfords with color-coordinated rep ties; and long, baffled outerwear.
The women's offering didn't pack the same punch, but it still included a few fun peculiarities, among them a pair of fur boxing gloves and a sheer mesh top that revealed much more than anything else in the modest collection. The grand finale was an unexpected twist to end such a macho show—a gown with a long train held up by, who else, two chiseled boxers.