One of Chitose Abe's womenswear signatures at Sacai is artful layering-which-isn't-exactly-layered. It's more of a trompe l'oeil effect. But in Sacai's new collection for men, the layers were real. In fact, a new approach to layering was the starting point: a nylon blouson laid over tailored pinstripes, say, or a hoodie over a parka. That sounds like mere willful designer trickery in theory, but it didn't look that way in practice, because everything was so light and casual and bare-leg sporty, with a new Birkenstock collaboration providing footwear to match.
A coat that self-belted to one side, fitted to the body there and loose on the other side, was quintessential Sacai, but otherwise, an appetite for utility took over the collection, with bombers and cargo shorts and camo. "It's a uniform in a modern way," said spokesperson Daisuke Gemma, "but we don't like to talk about the army." Still, it was the camo that provided the most special effects. Abe started with a basic Swedish pattern, took some things out, put other things in, and ended up with a very pleasing abstract, which was overprinted on pinstripes and herringbone for coats, tops, and pants. It was playful; it was Pop. It was, in other words, Sacai to a camo-printed T.
Something else for the record: Whether you are man, woman, or child, a Sacai parka will forever be a thing of joy.