Rodarte's Kate and Laura Mulleavy have a thing for blondes. Their California gold rush collection for Spring necessitated a gaggle of tawny-haired catwalkers, and so, too, did their Days of Heaven-derived Fall offering. "She's a girl from the country," hairstylist Odile Gilbert said of the matte-textured manes she was coating with Aveda Air Control hair spray and its Phomollient Styling Foam mousse, which she worked into strands with her hands to get piece-y definition. "The spirit is a field of wheat," she continued of the mostly flaxen locks she was styling with side parts and "supernatural," sweeping half-up-half-downs, secured with a thin, loose braid and the occasional gilded fan-shaped hair clip designed by the Mulleavys. "It's a mess under control," Gilbert concluded of her handiwork.
Discussing the "pastoral beauty" look, makeup artist James Kaliardos said, "It's the light at dawn and dusk"—those brief moments of the day that photographers often refer to as "the magic hour" for the sun's lovely glow. Building an eye reminiscent of a "stormy sunset," Kaliardos glided a pre-mixed blend of MAC Pro Cream Colour Base in Nude and Yellow Scream over models' lids, adding its gray/lavender Eyeshadow in Crystal through the crease. Brows were diffused ever so slightly with a layer of MAC Eyeshadow in Soba, a nutty beige. To give girls an authentic, straight-off-the farm touch, Kaliardos coated their lashes with MAC Pro Longwear concealer in NC-45 to lighten. Complexions were left pretty bare, save for a dusting of MAC Blush in So Sweet So Easy, a bright pink, that Kaliardos dragged on the top of cheekbones and across the nose ridge before carving out a minimal contour with its Sculpt and Shape powder in Bone Beige.
Finishing touches came in the form of a rosy-brown lip painted with MAC Lipstick in Photo and nails lacquered with Deborah Lippmann's No More Drama. But not every girl got the metallic copper polish. Lindsey Wixson and Karlie Kloss, both born Midwesterners, were treated to ten fingers of Lippmann's Jessica Rabbit, a red-sequins varnish that she hand-mixed for the show to match the stunning red gowns the two models wore on the runway. So, was it an accurate homage to America's bread basket? "It's like glam Kansas," Wixson offered. "It's not a thoroughfare for fashion, but it's home to me."