Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Rick Owens

Senior Beauty Editor Celia Ellenberg's take:
Rick Owens loves a red lip. "Somehow it transforms a woman into being beautiful," the designer's trusted makeup artist Lucia Pieroni says of the magic bullet of MAC Lipstick in Lady Danger that she has become accustomed to layering on top of a precise tracing effort of its Lip Pencil in Redd at Owens' shows—a combination that has become a ritual here for the last three seasons. "It offsets the scary," the face painter joked, referencing Owens' woman for Fall, who wore a half- or full-face knit mask that sat on top of Luigi Murenu's impossibly sleek twisted chignons and Pieroni's impeccably perfect skin. There was one difference backstage from seasons past, though: Pieroni left brows unbleached at the only presentation that typically compels her to defy the "full, boyish brow" mantra that has become her calling card.

"Normally we would get rid of them, but they're under something that is quite hard, so we need to make sure [the girls] look gorgeous," she said of models' arches. But rather than etch big, lush brows as an alternative, Pieroni only lightly traced them back on so as not to overpower the masks, using eyebrow pencils that were one shade darker than the model's natural color to remind the flock of editors and buyers that had assembled at the Palais Omnisport de Paris-Bercy that "there's a beautiful woman under there."
Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Shows
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