Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear
"He respects women," Tom Pecheux gushed when talking about Joseph Altuzarra. "His clothes are fashion, but wearable fashion," the makeup artist continued, showering Altuzarra with accolade after accolade while describing his collection, a favorite stop for Pecheux in New York. "It's very tailored mixed with a little craziness, it's a little [Thierry] Mugler-ish, it's very…Carine Roitfeld," he finally relented. "You said it!" an excited Daria Strokous exclaimed as Pecheux applied MAC Mineralize Moisture Foundation and its Prep and Prime Translucent Loose Finishing Powder to pale out her skin following a moisturizing massage. How so? "You know how [Carine] wears those pencil skirts? I was shooting with her once and underneath was the sexiest slip, but no one sees it. It's that kind of woman," Strokous elaborated.
For Fall, Altuzarra's woman was spiked with a touch of "spookiness," according to Pecheux, which caused the face painter to play with a black smoky eye—another Roitfeld signature—while making sure it was not aggressive. Using the creamy onyx Oil Slick Black from MAC's Fall Forecast Eye Palette, Pecheux diffused the pigment across models' lids with his fingers so there were no hard edges, dragging it halfway underneath the lower lash line as well. To that, he added a metallic raspberry stroke of its Eye Shadow in Loves Lure, also only halfway to the inner corner, which had a bruised quality to it but was meant to create the illusion of madness, Pecheux explained. "It's a little Belle de Jour fantasy," he surmised, taking down lips with MAC's Paint Pot in Tailor Grey.
Paul Hanlon added Patti Smith and Kate Moss to the inspiration list when describing his texturized, lived-in locks. "It's a bit rock 'n' roll, like it's a few days old," he explained taking all the volume out of models' strands with a cocktail of OSiS Schwarzkopf Grip Extreme Hold Mousse and its Buff Light Styling Cream, twisting as he blow-dried to further flatten the hair shaft. Then, section by section, he worked in OSiS Schwarzkopf Magic Anti-Frizz Shine Serum all the way to the roots for a "greasy' effect that was enhanced by its BC Hairtherapy Oil Potion Finishing Treatment through the ends for separation. "It's stringy," Hanlon said imparting a bend to the mid-lengths with a low-lying elastic that he removed before the show started. "It's the opposite of beautiful, rich, quality hair."