Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear


Senior Beauty Editor Amber Kallor's take:
The same "clogged" lashes and tight chignons seen at Prada's menswear show (featuring both sexes) made an appearance yet again in "act two" for Fall 2014. This time around, however, additional characters were added to the Luchino Visconti- and Pina Bausch-inspired mix via red lipstick and blue shadow. A handful of the cast received a stained cherry lip in addition to their clumpy fringe, while others had both a crimson pout and a "worn-off teal-blue" shade washed across their lids. "In a way, that red lip, black mascara, blue eyeshadow is the beginning of makeup, isn't it?" makeup guru Pat McGrath asked editors rhetorically backstage. "There's something quite powerful about that on a face that's so full of character and womanly," she added. As for having models apply their own lipstick to capture the "imperfection" and "realness" Miuccia Prada was after, that idea made McGrath understandably a bit nervous. Before being handed a tube, one of the models whispered to another, "I will be so bad at this—I've never worn red lipstick." And when you have to apply it for the first time in front of a face painter who was recently recognized by the Queen of England for her superior skills, well, that would make even an old pro a tad intimidated. With some coaching from the sidelines—"Take your time, darling, don't make it bad," McGrath pointed out to one of the girls as she quickly slicked the bullet over her lips—the results were surprisingly impeccable. "I might get in trouble because they're too perfect," the master of maquillage quipped.

"She loved the idea of ballerinas," Guido Palau said of his conversation with the designer. "When a dancer goes out after a performance, she shoves on her coat, does her lip, and her hair is just pulled back, or she doesn't change her hair after the performance, she just leaves it—there's an elegance to it." Before crafting "severe but basic" knots, Palau raked Redken Move Ability 05 paste through strands before tying them off into a pony, coiling the tail and pinning it in place near the nape to show off the neck. "There's a feeling of hands [in the hair], an imperfection to its perfection," he explained. The finished package was a beauty look we didn't mind making a second curtain call.
Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear Shows
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