"Marco [Zanini] likes a sculpted beauty," makeup artist Lucia Pieroni said backstage at the designer's Spring Rochas collection. "A simple, yet made-up" look that she and her coiffing counterpart, Eugene Souleiman, delivered in spades. Working off one of this season's big trends—"perfection," fifties-style—Pieroni added a sci-fi twist, channeling Tim Burton's 1996 film Mars Attacks.
"It's alien-beautiful," she said of the clean, powdered skin that shined "in all the right places," thanks to Clé de Peau's forthcoming Luminizing Face Enhancer in 12 Gold, a prismatic highlighting palette, which Pieroni swiped across cheekbones and down the bridge of the nose. A "fifties brow"—that classic straight, full shape—was filled in and given a pointed arch with MAC Eye Shadow in Omega, Copperplate, and Typographic, while a smudged lid, which received a diffused line of chestnut pigment from Clé de Peau's new-for-spring Eye Color Quad in 208, a mix of beiges and browns, created depth. To tone down mouths ever-so-slightly, Pieroni patted on its as-yet-unreleased Enriched Lip Luminizer in 220 Honey Nuts for a golden nude finish.
"They're so perfect, they're almost from outer space," Souleiman elaborated of Zanini's directive, which the coiffing star translated into gravity-defying French twists. "We simply reduced the weight of the hair by creating a ponytail that's been teased to death," Souleiman said of the process, which required little more than a few mists of hair spray. "Then, you just wrap all of that frizz into a hairdo. It's a quick fix, but it actually works," he said—particularly well with the chiffon scarves that were assigned to a few of the girls at random. "They sort of feel like they're levitating," Souleiman offered of the diaphanous fabric's billowing quality. "But it's not weird."