Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear
If it wasn't clear from the sunflower-print opening looks that Laura and Kate Mulleavy sent out onto the runway, Vincent van Gogh and his most famous paintings partially inspired their Spring Rodarte collection and its complementary beauty look. "It's Starry Night," makeup artist James Kaliardos said backstage, referencing the Dutch post-impressionist master's oil-on-canvas depiction of the view outside his sanitarium room window.
"Bigger! Smokier!" Kaliardos told his army of face painters, who encased eyes in midnight blue accordingly, thanks to a precise layering effort of NARS' new Soft Touch Shadow Pencil in Dark Rite, a shimmering navy, and its Eye Shadows in Night Flight, a deep ink, and Tropic, a glittery aqua. Cheeks were treated to a blended application of NARS Cream Blush in Penny Lane, a muted mauve that was also patted onto lips and topped with its Lip Gloss in Nano, a sheer purple, for a lavender-tinged nude effect.
The famous painting's swirling stars and dark backdrop inspired nail guru Deborah Lippmann as well, who custom-mixed large pieces of silver and graphite sequins into her sparkling navy lacquer Lady Sings the Blues. "You've gotta amp it up for the girls," Lippmann said, referring to the Mulleavys, who are particular about every single detail that goes into their shows, right down to the toes. "They didn't want them to match the nail," Lippmann mentioned, slicking on pedicures with two coats of her universal neutral varnish Fashion.
Odile Gilbert diverted from the art-history reference to add a retro forties element to the equation in the form of "sweet sixteen" hair that worked well with the designers' series of fantasy, almost promlike dresses. "It's sort of teenager-y," Gilbert said, scrunching in Kérastase Volumactive Conditioning Mousse and its Double Force Hairspray for a tiny bit of texture. It wasn't all youth and whimsy, though—the front row's mean age notwithstanding. Gilbert side-parted strands and then created a twisted wave that she secured with a hair comb. "That's the part that's sophisticated," she said.