Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear

Saint Laurent

Senior Beauty Editor Celia Ellenberg's take:
After a last-minute change to the beauty look last season at Yves Saint Laurent, in which all traces of Pat McGrath's original vivid purple lip were erased in favor of a glossy nude mouth, we were hesitant to vacate the backstage premises out of fear that we'd miss all the eleventh-hour action. But McGrath's Ann Bonfoey Taylor-meets-Talitha Getty, "couture collector" look for Spring stayed intact, from the second she bleached brows and slicked on a metallic red lip until the curtain closed on Stefano Pilati's collection. "It's different and very brave," McGrath said of the look, which married Getty's signature, sixties black liner application—that favored black kohl rimmed lids with a thick and heavy point on the outer corners—with a made-to-order mouth, which featured a crimson foil finish rather than boring old matte or glossy.

"It's time to change things up a little," McGrath said—a dare that hairstylist Guido Palau was ready to accept. Rather than create a simple, textured chignon, the Redken creative consultant was also game to think outside the box. Prepping strands with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow Dry Lotion, Palau teased hair at the root to give it a "little lift" before tucking front sections behind the ears and gathering lengths into a low ponytail that he twisted into a messy bun. Then came the segmented gold hoops, which encased each knot and resembled the biggest door-knocker earrings we've ever seen. "Stefano had them made," Palau said of Pilati's gilded ornaments, which imparted a slight forties feel, but not intentionally. Those bleached arches and a modern nude nail courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent La Laque #2 Beige kept it from veering too far off into retro territory.
Spring 2012 Ready-to-Wear Shows
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