Maybe it was the fact that last season's big, sixties-era undone bouffants met with mixed reviews—or that Spring's general, minimal-minded beauty mantra is spreading. Whatever it was, Orlando Pita kept the hair backstage at Derek Lam incredibly simple—"relatable," even, he offered.
The technically gifted hairstylist was more inclined to blame the move toward minimal on the wavering economy—"it's not really the time to be flashy"—not to mention the state of fashion. "There are all these people now who are practical in the way they design," he said, running off the list of sartorial stars responsible for the marked change, in his opinion. "Raf Simons is at Christian Dior now; Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent—and Jil Sander is back at Jil Sander."
Then, of course, there's Lam—a master in his own right at the simplicity of sportswear. "Derek wanted something that wasn't referenced," Pita shared, as he coated hair with Phyto Intense Volume Mousse, blowing it dry for texture and then coating his hands with its Workable Holding Spray before slicking down front pieces from an imperfect side part. Pita used T3's straightening and styling iron to create loose waves through the lengths, deconstructing them a bit to ensure that the hair never looked "worked on."
Estée Lauder creative director of makeup Tom Pecheux was going for a similar light-handed approach, despite using a bounty of product. "The only thing we're not using is mascara!" he said of the fully made-up face that still managed to avoid looking heavy, thanks to Pecheux's focus on a "see-through," transparent finish. Prepping skin with Lauder's Re-Nutriv Intensive Age Renewal Creme, his trusty bottle of its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and the new-for-spring Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion, Pecheux created a base with its Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. Contouring with Lauder's Pure Color Blush in Brazen Bronze instead of a sculpting product, Pecheux moved his focus to the eyes, which were layered with a selection of the brand's forthcoming Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints in Cosmic, Extreme Emerald, Halo, and Steel, a sheer teal/sandy-gold palette Pecheux described as "aqua—like the reflection of sunrise on a lake." Lips were toned down and arches were beefed up, in accordance with Pecheux's preference for big, full brows—"I can't help it," the face painter joked. As Lam made his way around the room, checking on the pre-show progress, he stopped by Pecheux's station for a quick hello. "The girls look pretty!" he said. Indeed.