Spring 2014 Couture

Christian Dior

From the beauty desk:
Backstage before the Dior show, hair maestro Guido Palau noted that Raf Simons' forward-thinking Spring 2014 couture show required him to keep things pared down. "Raf really wanted a nod to being now," he explained. "There is no reference to another era, so he wanted something modern and nonreferential. It's not what you would imagine from couture hair, in that it is not elaborate." With that in mind, Palau devised “simple hair with a messy side part,” which he created using Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist to amp up luster and, in turn, reduce volume. "It's very real," he concluded.

As for fingertips, manicurist Elsa Deslandes was the first to get her hands on the new Diorlisse Abricot #800 (Snow Pink) lacquer. "When you put it on, it's like a collagen injection for the nails. One coat makes them appear perfectly curved, soft, and smooth," she said. Deslandes topped the pale polish with a single, high-shine layer of transparent Gel Coat. "It's really thick, so it magnifies the shine and it works on any other color. It's the comeback of the shiny nail!" she said, laughing.

In creating the makeup statement with Simons, face painter Pat McGrath said that they very quickly determined that the strongest look was one that "conveyed perfect grooming without being overdone. It's very much about raw glamour with very natural skin and a bare, simple face with a strong, fiery red lip." McGrath prepped models' faces with primer (like the house's Pore Minimizer) and perfected complexions with foundation and touches of highlighter (try Diorskin Nude foundation and Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen), before turning her attention to the lips—opting either for a flesh-hued balm (such as Addict Lip Glow) to enhance models' mouths or a mix of two crimson lipsticks before sealing the color with balm (to re-create the look, use Rouge Dior in #999 and #844 Trafalgar). To complement the lip story, McGrath readied the eyes with a primer and then swept a rusty-bronze eye shadow (a cornerstone shade in the forthcoming 5-Color Transat Edition Sundeck palette) over the top. "Burnishing the lids brings out that natural eye color we all love," she explained. A stroke of a plumping serum on the lashes (like Diorshow Maximizer), followed by a coat of brown mascara, and they were done. "It's a super-clean, graphic face—everyone is enhanced and the color really pops; it's like an illustration," observed Stella Tennant backstage. As one of the "nude lip" models, she noted she'd considered going back to McGrath and "begging for a mouth." But then she decided to stay put. "Pat knows best," she said. Seeing as the Queen recently recognized her beauty skills, we'd have to agree.
Spring 2014 Couture Shows
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