French wild child and novelist Francoise Sagan, who drove race cars, kept bad boyfriends, and ended up in rehab in Saint-Tropez, inspired the clothes in the collection. She was essentially the original Lindsay Lohan "…except she could write," explained Brian Wolk, one half of the Ruffian design duo. Another author and bad girl, this one British, inspired the makeup and hair: Lady Caroline Blackwood.
As a nod to the beauty muse and the sixties, makeup artist James Kaliardos circled the eye in a gray shade from MAC called March Mist with a 213 brush, and added shadow, dubbed Particularly Pretty (both colors from the Spring/Summer '14 Trend Forecast Eye Palette), to both the middle of the lid and the cheeks as a highlighter. Four individual lashes were placed on the center of the upper lash line to open up the eye, and Haute & Naughty Mascara was brushed on both top and bottom. "It's quite lash-y, but still a soft look," explained the face painter. Lips were dabbed with a soft apricot called Trendy Twist (also from a Spring/Summer '14 Trend Forecast Palette).
Hair pro Nick Irwin applied Catwalk by TIGI Curlesque Lightweight Mousse to the halo area before blow-drying and adding a deep side part, which he set with Sleek Mystique Look-Lock Hairspray. To create the appearance of a set that had fallen out, he wrapped sections around a curling rod and then finger-combed.
"We wanted to bring minimalism to nail art this season," said Wolk, imploring finger painter Cheryl Natoli and their own brand of circular nail sticker-stencils (available soon on Birchbox) to get the signature Ruffian crescent shape. The three lacquers in their newly launched Crowdsourced Collection were used around the edges of a nude-colored nail bed, extending all the way to squared-off tips. They also debuted a treatment, base coat, matte finisher, as well as black, scented polish-remover towelettes (arriving later this fall) backstage.