NEW YORK, January 16, 2008 – Nicolas Ghesquière took a three-pronged approach to pre-fall, dividing his 24-look collection into "bourgeois," "grunge," and "classic" categories. The first included tweedy skirtsuits and trenches with volume at the back, à la Cristobal Balenciaga's 1950's silhouettes. Hoodlike hats made from quilted silk scarf prints of fish and fowl completed the haute campside look. The second grouping featured long paisley and Japanese-inspired floral dresses lined with black net and topped with black shearling chubbies and vests—very Gold Dust Woman. The third was much more strict and minimal, with religious undertones. White scarves peeked from the necklines of little black dresses, and a Catholic schoolgirl's uniform was updated in luxe silk gazar. Ghesquière finished with a trio of floor-length numbers, the standout being a white gown with hand-stitched metallic embroidery at the bodice and hem. It could've come straight from the boudoir of a 1940's Hollywood starlet.

– Nicole Phelps