NEW YORK, January 8, 2008 – Francisco Costa was still sporting a tan from his holiday in Tulum, Mexico, but it was the snow-covered slopes he seemed to have on his mind at his pre-fall presentation. Knit ski pants and ribbed turtlenecks in ivory, tan, charcoal, or black were the building blocks upon which he layered boxy cable knits, rich shearling sweaters, and belted cocoon coats. For day, the standout was a camel suit—actually, a sleek leather blazer worn with full, pleat-front trousers. Come evening, the streamlined sensibility of Costa's après-ski theme peaked in a pair of dramatic two-piece gowns in which taupe leotard-tight tops were paired with high-waisted, long narrow skirts in shocking pink or teal. Should we expect similar fare at his Fall show next month? Yes, he said, but sexier, with more structure and hourglass shapes.

– Nicole Phelps