Even though its big names routinely get siphoned off by fashion's bigger cities, London still manages to produce a few provocative shows each season. Sophia Kokosalaki was the clear star for Fall 2002, stepping firmly into the limelight with her most polished collection to date. Others hewed to various British traditions, playing off tailoring (Warren Noronha's racy pinstripes), eccentric intellect (Hamish Morrow's mix of traditional and high-tech fabrics) and understated sexiness (Roland Mouret). The city may not be completely restocked with exciting young design talent, but this season proved there's life in London yet.—Janet Ozzard
Kokosalaki's expert craftsmanship shone through in this collection of jigsaw pieces strung together with spider-like threads. Mouret's flattering collection was at once romantic and seductive. Morrow's sporty show crossed the boundaries between traditional fabrics and high-tech materials. Blaak's "nomad grunge" collection re-imagined hippie chic by adding a dose of London street cred. Noronha made pinstripes sexy by combining sharp tailoring with feminine draping.
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