From Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, blue velvet with just the right mix of Deneuvian elegance and Lynchian kinkiness. In his second collection with the Gucci Group's backing, Alexander McQueen delivered fairytale /goth/get- thee-to-the- Black-Forest looks of exceptional beauty. Miuccia Prada's best designs always look as though they've come right off her back. Here, a very Mrs. Prada sheared mink, with one of the loveliest trumpet sleeves ever. At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs recalled the icy glamour of Hitchcock heroines to spectacular effect. His Nordic tunic and pearlized leather trousers--so Kim Novak!--capture this restrained yet glossy season. Who doesn't want to dress like Keith Richards at Altamont? Marc Jacobs delivers all that glammy grooviness for fall, while fully comprehending that we want luxe separates to mix and match at will.
The fastest way to update your evening wardrobe: add a silk charmeuse dress and channel Jean Harlow. Narciso Rodriguez's plunge-back number is the sexiest and most perfectly cut charmeuse frock to be found. Who says sexy equals skinny? Tom Ford, for Gucci, makes a peacoat of Margiela proportions that you'll toss over everything when the weather cools. Love the satin lapels! The narrowest bomber with the fattest ribbed collar--Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga understands how to fiddle with scale so that even banal basics look superfresh. John Galliano's we-wear-the-world collection was a visual feast. Here, to snack on, a spin on the chopstick-thin cheongsam. Post-"Gosford Park" mania, who better than Ralph Lauren, a man who knows a thing or two about dressing for a hunt? His best looks mix menswear flourishes (tweeds, flannels, ascots, etc) without sacrificing femininity.
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