That meant that pop color—acid yellow, orange, emerald and royal blue—flashed through the collection in shoes, bags and down jackets laden with utility straps and clips. But even if they play up an effervescent moment with details like necklaces made of bottle tops or CDs, or a shot of brash gold lamé, these guys know better than to neglect what they do best. Year after year Dolce & Gabbana's mannish suits and shapely dresses keep women coming back, and they'd never let a passing trend distract from that.

In a season when menswear is a rising trend, Dolce & Gabbana's pantsuits and shirting looked bang-on relevant. They redrafted the proportions to create new shoulder volume, sometimes slipping a pinstripe bolero or a jacket cut like a kimono over waist-clinching tailoring. White shirts looked great tied with a flourish in front to reemphasize the expert tease of their masculine/feminine styling.

For evening, they issued updates on the corset-tight sheaths they've been doing forever, one in a ruched satin rose print, another in black lace, followed by a finale of enough showgirl fringed sparkle and spangled nude tulle to dress the entire cast of Chicago. This is a collection celebrating house classics. And no wonder: Dolce & Gabbana have just opened a whole new business, here at 26 Via della Spiga, devoted to selling remade editions of their greatest vintage hits.

– Sarah Mower