Armani drew a long, supple silhouette with dresses, coats, and jackets that were cut close to the body and gently fluted toward the hem. Standouts included laser-cut and printed velvet pieces, scalloped-edge lace jackets, beaded halter dresses, and crystal-encrusted evening jackets crafted as softly as blouses. Huge sparkling brooches underscored the air of decadent eccentricity that is fast becoming the look of the season. Among the rich, couture-like handwork that has long distinguished Armani’s evening looks, he also sent out a selection of his luxurious signature streetwear in the form of ankle-skimming, vaguely Napoleonic coats.
In condensing this show to a 20-minute sampling of his vast collection, Armani embraced the eclecticism that is a ruling factor in fashion right now. It looked like a beautiful step forward.
Sarah Mower






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