Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear: Style.com

From up-and-comers to runway vets, these 15 designers are at the top of their games, hitting fall's big trends, as well as polishing their own unique styles.



Native New Yorker Roi returned to her roots, showing sophisticated schoolgirl looks to flashback eighties music (Morrissey, Jane's Addiction) at Friends Academy, her alma mater.	There was plenty in Gn's fall collection to please the Paris-based Singaporean's socialite fans: taffeta suits embroidered in gold, blousy chiffon tops covered with baubles, and astrakhan coats trimmed—for good measure—with mink.	With the Ballet Russes as inspiration, Bui's frothy collection of full skirts, plunge-neck blouses in snowy white, brocade coats, and lace-up sandals was on point.	The ultra-imaginative Anastase's sophomore collection looked like a fairy tale for sophisticates, with its hooded capes, shrunken coats, and Empire gowns.	Victorian values were celebrated in Tahari's new collection, which refitted romantic staples like puff sleeves, velvets, ribbons, and sequins for hot nights in the naked city.



The glamour quotient was higher than usual at Graham's show this year, transforming his gothy, rustic pieces with a feeling that was more frock 'n' roll than country.	The fur is flying, which makes fall Teso's moment. Shearlings and astrakhans from this furrier-turned- ready-to-wear- designer were embroidered in black-and-gold silk thread in the fin-de-siècle style of Russia's imperial court.	Runway veteran Marcel Marongiu struck a sober tone for fall with a mostly black collection of full trousers, tulip skirts, and floor-length dresses that wouldn't look out of place in a nunnery.	Better look twice: That was the Double playing at Ping's fall show at Avery Fisher Hall. The clothes hit a high note with clean, sharp lines and a cool vibe.	Punk attitude; wearable clothes. Rzepski delivered sassy, sexy separates—in merino wool and a pima cotton-cashmere mix—whose drama derived from the ways in which they were dyed, draped, and gathered.



Pierre Carrilero played nature boy for fall, returning to the runway with a ripe harvest of intarsia and hand-knit sweaters in a wintery, outdoorsy theme.	Brooklyn-based Francisco Chaydez and Michael Carbaugh contrasted tailored pieces (skinny pants, fitted jackets) in big-city black with drapey tops and dresses in brighter hues.	Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock stood out from their fellow Gen Art designers with vintage-look drop-waist dresses and a cropped- bomber-and-trouser number that was Katharine Hepburn cool.	Victoria Bartlett explored the politics of undress with desirable separates for lanky ladies. The only deliberation required is whether to sequester them under clothes or let them all hang out.	A live rendition of Kate Bush's "Babooshka" proved the perfect backdrop for the latest collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas: a Soviet Russia-inspired collection of leather trenches, low-riding denim, and tailored jackets cut in sweatsuit fabric.