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see all coverage from Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear >
runway reviewD&G
MILAN, February 23, 2005 – Kate Moss and her hard-partying London crew are currently obsessed with the glitter years (it was the dress code for her latest birthday bash), so Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were heading in the right general direction when they sprayed their runway gold, put up a giant disco ball, and blasted T. Rex and Roxy Music at their D&G show. As a device, an escape into seventies kitsch promised a bit of light relief from the dark ponderings that have overtaken grown-up fashion this season.

But what turned up on the runway paid scant heed to glam-rock accuracy. It was more a trawl through every mother's nightmare of an aspiring underage rock chick's wardrobe: bottom-skimming baby dolls, punky ultramini kilts, chaps, that sort of thing. The sequined eye makeup, a blue dyed monkey fur, a swaggery green Napoleonic maxicoat, and a floor-sweeping velvet cloak did pay direct homage to Biba, circa 1972, but what teen would know or care? What matters was that, as always, there was plenty of stuff to keep the D&G juniors happy, including a troop of gold-painted drainpipe jeans, which could look annoyingly great on a 15-year-old.

– Sarah Mower 

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