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see all coverage from Fall 2005 Ready-to-Wear >
runway reviewDsquared²
MILAN, February 26, 2005 – Was that a sundress on the Dsquared runway? With maple leaves and other wholesome hallmarks of Canada, birthplace of twin designers Dean and Dan Caten? And was the model wearing modest, elbow-length gloves? Yes, yes, and yes. Milan's enfants terribles played down their party-boy image for fall, turning out a collection that wasn't that far from demure.

Sure, there were a few of those reliable trucker hats, but there were fedoras, as well; and the girl-meets-boy stylings were a far cry from last season's frat house antics. The Catens trotted out plenty of the pieces they're known for: cropped denim and leather pants, lumberjack plaids, and chunky sweaters (one cheeky turtleneck read: "Jesus Loves Me"). But they were paired, this time around, with full skirts, car coats with a swing at the hem, and such ladylike accessories as fur tippets and silk scarves tied jauntily at the neck. The show closed with a series of liquid silk cocktail dresses in jewel tones which, together with a broadtail or two, conspired to elevate the proceedings even further.

– Nicole Phelps 

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