NEW YORK, February 9, 2006 – The not-so-secret motivation behind Malo's runway show was brand-building. The 34-year-old cashmere company wants to expand in America, and it hopes that the appointment of Fabio Piras—a Swiss graduate of Central Saint Martins with experience at Balmain Couture, Tod's, and most recently, Brioni—will achieve that goal, while putting Malo on the radar of the fashion cognoscenti.

Malo is known, of course, for luxury with a "made in Italy" touch. Piras delivered that in the company's signature cashmere knits, worked into a chunky but chic turtleneck dress and a number of delicate lacy numbers. There were also classic coats, notably a camel trapeze number and some substantial woven models. The "moneyed" point was really driven home by the furs, including a poncho and a white sheared-mink trench, as well as by the ultraluxe crocodile that was used for accessories. The peep-toe shoes were so high that they hobbled the models, but the thigh-high boots in green crocodile were fierce (as the price tag will surely be).

Those boots were a nod to the fashion-forward consumer, but ultimately Piras aimed this collection at the "groomed lady" he believes to be the brand's core customer. The intention was to communicate what Anna Piaggi's program notes termed "a sensual hint of bon ton," and that was mostly achieved.

– Laird Borrelli