MILAN, February 23, 2006 – Gray, navy, men's suiting, coats, knits: These subjects of the season are MaxMara's material claim to fame, and for fall, the label's designers grabbed their advantage. Younger and faster-paced than usual, the collection set off at a clip with a bit of sharp styling: There were leggings and glossy pumps worn under short dresses, tailored jackets, and sequin-striped knits. Meanwhile, A-line duffels in gray melton and blanket checks, double-breasted maxi coats, and a few capes stood as a strong reminder of exactly why MaxMara is a go-to label for coats.

Cutting a neat three-piece pantsuit is a natural for the house, too. They followed through by draping menswear fabrics into feminine shapes: Egg-shape skirts and a strapless wool dress jibed well with the direction of the season. The proportions—skinny legs and voluminous tops, slouchy pants and narrow bodies—touched on all the right trends as well, but why show so many versions? MaxMara doesn't need to prove it can deliver the same shapes in different fabrics and colors. Still, compared to recent form, the modernized message of this collection was a big improvement.

– Sarah Mower