PARIS, February 27, 2008 – Albert Kriemler smartly avoided the decorative motifs that distracted from his impeccable tailoring last season. There was a minimalist, almost ascetic appeal to double-faced cashmere suits—the jackets long with high, stand-up collars and narrowed waists, and the trousers with graceful, sleek lines. Anything superfluous was eliminated.

His coats were also elongated, several grazing the ankle and accessorized with floor-scraping knit or fur scarves. For a more casual take on the pared-down, cleaned-up look, there were streamlined suede tunics over second-skin turtlenecks and slim pants, as well as a horizontally ribbed dolman-sleeved sweater dress worn belted—like everything else—to accentuate the waist.

The collection wasn't completely free of decoration. Graduated rectangles on silk tulle coat-dresses were more subtle than the mille-feuille layers of organza ribbon at another dress's hem (or, worse, bodice). The strongest evening pieces took their cues from the streamlined daywear: a floor-length cashmere dress with envelope pockets and double-inset pleats, or even simpler, a matte-jersey knife-pleated column with a double skirt in back. All in all, much improved.

– Nicole Phelps