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see all coverage from Fall 2008 Ready-to-Wear >
runway reviewCostume National
PARIS, February 27, 2008 – Ennio Capasa said this was the third part of a trilogy on "the future"; it started with his Fall 2003 line and continued for Spring 2007. If memory serves, his space walks have never been as out there as those of his peers, and this season was no exception. The final frontier was really just a framework around which to build another collection of the sharp, angular tailoring he favors—now almost exclusively in black. It also gave him an excuse to add some aerodynamic ruffles and furls to cocktail dresses. As for that tailoring, it included coats with high, swooping collars out of The Matrix, strong-shouldered jackets, a cropped satin pant with a new wider leg, fit-and-flare tunics, and strict pencil skirts. A pastel turtleneck gave a sleeveless gray shift with a looped-up hem an air-stewardess touch circa 1960. But everything else—in particular, the little black dress with stiff ruffles spinning about the torso and around the model's neck that closed the show—was severe and sexy. Space is a place Capasa should visit more often.

– Nicole Phelps 
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