NEW YORK, February 1, 2008 – Erin Fetherston's first look—a long black felted-wool overcoat, worn over a black chiffon floor-length gown, complete with rosary and hand-knit bonnet—suggested that the guru of girly was going goth. That, or she'd made a study of Mary-Kate Olsen's closet. But it was just a tease. After last season's more elegant outing, Fetherston chose to reprise many of the youthful shapes and silhouettes that first got her noticed. There were a few new, good-looking peacoats; a charming metallic-shot tweedy cape; and a coat-dress in a navy and black brocade. But what followed was a parade of familiar drop-waist frocks, bell-skirted dresses, and Empire princess looks, many of which were worn with opaque tights and ballerina slippers that accentuated the innocence factor. A tank dress that was short in the front and long in back was the freshest of the bunch, not only because it was so different from the rest, but also because of its vivid, almost hyper-real floral print.

Already this season, much has been said about the end of girly and the return of grown up. This wasn't a step backward necessarily, but Fetherston will have to push herself further next season if she wants to keep up with fashion's changing winds.

– Nicole Phelps