Stella McCartney certainly did not disappoint her legions of fabulous young fans who rely on Chloé for the season's hot new trends. But this season, in addition to delivering sexy new T-shirts and plunging bathing suits (with playful pineapple motifs), McCartney explored grown-up territory. Perhaps drawing inspiration from Schiaparelli's inventive chic, McCartney worked graphic horse prints (borrowed from Stubbs and Géricault) into loosely structured diagonal-seam dresses and beautiful jackets with a softly draped triangle shoulder. Skirts were long and relaxed, perfect when paired with lightweight, flouncy off-the shoulder tops. Wide-brim hats and dainty pillboxes with a tulle overlay gave the look a touch of '30s sophistication. More casual pieces included sexy jeans with zipper pockets and metallic horses galloping along the backside, and a T-shirt with strategically placed banana appliqués in the front and the words "Keep your bananas off my melons" in the back.

This was a very strong collection for McCartney, and one that confirms her considerable talent and potential as a major designer.

– By Armand Limnander