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Vive la couture! This Spring, designers made it clear that haute couture is still very much a medium with a message, pulling in themes from near and far, from the hipster present to the distant past. Gaultier's first exit, Amélie, was named for the current coquette star of French cinema, while Valentino refashioned the Empire silhouette first worn in Napoleon's Paris. Lacroix mixed references to Spanish style and painting with African fabrics. At Dior, Galliano combined a pinch of military and a dash of circus style with a bit of mode—à la Mongolia. Harlequin brights ruled at Versace and Dior; the season's dominant palette—as seen at Chanel—was muted pastels as soft as a Spring day. Below, the season's top five trends.—Laird Borrelli
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 | Combining high drama with impeccable craftsmanship, high fashion is as vibrant and alive as ever. Above: Jean Paul Gaultier |
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 | Designers roamed the globe, forging a high-octane, multicultural mix. Above: Christian Dior |
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 | This season was about sugar, spice and everything nice, all rendered in the prettiest pastels. Above: Yves Saint Laurent |
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 | The best accessory for classic couture? Show-stopper jewelry. Above: Balmain |
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 | The perfect dress needs a perfect shoe—and there were plenty to choose from. Above: Chanel |
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