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see all coverage from Spring 2003 Ready-to-Wear >
runway reviewAntonio Berardi
MILAN, September 29, 2002 – Shrinking violets, seek your spring wardrobe elsewhere. The last thing Antonio Berardi's brazen young things want to do is melt into the background. With their wild tresses flowing and their skirts climbing ever skyward, these girls make tossing propriety to the wind an Olympic sport.

But it's all in good fun. Berardi designed his spring line in spun-sugar colors: lavender, pale yellow, sky blue and apricot, tempered with some ivory, white and black to keep the insulin levels in check. Using attention-grabbing fabrics like gleaming charmeuse and breezy gossamer silks, he cut skintight dresses, short-short skirts and pants tight enough for a rock star. Those trends have gotten plenty of airtime in the spring collections, though, and Berardi didn't bring much news to the table. Where he really shows his hand is with jackets: He cinches in the waists, blows out the shoulders to Thierry Mugler–esque proportions and piles on embellishments like beading or bits of lace. Berardi may not be the go-to guy for the working women of the world, but he'll always have the It girls.

– Janet Ozzard 

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