NEW YORK, September 19, 2002 – Calvin Klein’s collections can have a hypnotic effect. Avoiding bells and whistles, he sends out utterly simple clothes that, through cut, color and drape, lull the watchers—who this season included Sandra Bullock and Gwyneth Paltrow—into a willing state of desire.

The designer’s darkly monastic fall collection, with its military overtones, is a thing of the past. Using a palette of teal blue, ivory, taupe, shell pink, white and black, he sent out a spring line that was as gentle as a sea breeze on a summer day. Luxury fabrics—supple viscose, fluid silk charmeuse, crisp linen, buttery glove leather and sheer chiffon—took the tailoring into a new realm and emphasized Klein’s command of understated sex appeal. (This is a designer who can turn a humble basic like a tank top or a knit camisole into a seductive tool, just by placing the neckline precisely so it strokes the model’s collarbone.) A more overt sexiness was also in evidence, via bra tops and corsets paired with severe tailored trousers, skinny low-slung skirts and tight black jersey dresses. The sportswear front was equally well represented, with crisp shirts and shirtdresses, oversize leather jackets with quilted or channel-stitched collars, and a sweeping suede camel trench. Klein ended the show, like a good day at the beach, with a feast of sweets: pretty, pastel dresses detailed with sunbursts of pintucking or bands of ruching, and a generous serving of vanilla-colored silk jersey dresses replete with cascading ruffles.

– Janet Ozzard