PARIS, October 4, 2002 – Where does a ruffle-loving designer go when tight pants are on the season's screen? España, naturally, with its flamenco frills and matador pants. Emanuel Ungaro designer Giambattista Valli made it his destination for a spring fiesta of femininity, which reveled in lavish color, prints and a sexy, leggy silhouette.

The collection included just about everything a woman might need for endless hot summer nights. There were short one-shoulder and strapless dresses, in coral and mixed polka dots and florals, for a youthful cocktail. For serious seduction, there were gowns with deep plunges and high slits, and a lineup of super-beaded sparklers for the big event. It all could have sunk in a veritable Niagara of waterfall ruffles, but Valli’s increasing confidence kept it afloat.

His knack is adding a few shots of playful cool to the mix. Well-tailored matador pants got a dash of punk with zipped ankles and the odd strap and D-ring, and some of the cropped jackets were slightly urban-biker. Nicely handled color clashes, gutsy scarab bags and a general air of undone spontaneity gave Ungaro’s Spanish the right kind of accent for the moment.

– Sarah Mower